An article on Page 50 this weekend about System, a new magazine about the fashion industry, includes outdated information about its plans. After the article had gone to press, a representative from System announced that the stylist Marie-Amélie Sauvé, who worked on the first issue, will not be a member of System’s editorial board as previously announced. And a picture portfolio by Neville Wakefield planned for the first issue will be published in a later issue.
So you started off as this rookie photographer with close to zero experience, how did your style come into place? I
was not interested at all with anything that had to do with technique. I
didn’t even know what the camera in my hand was called most times
because we would rent them. I was just so interested in the girls.
Fascinated. In love, in a way. In a stupid way. I still am. But it’s
kind of like in the way that only someone who doesn’t meet enough girls
is fascinated by girls, you know? [Laughs.] I’ll always remember just
having Linda Evangelista in front of me. And looking through the lens,
seeing her face there, and pulling it into focus. And I remember asking,
“Could you open your mouth?” because I thought that it would make it
more beautiful. I took the picture and it was like such an erotic, sexy.
You know, it’s like with the camera between the man and a woman, you
could get away with murder. I’m not, like, gregarious around women.
This is truly the lowest of low: model scouts in Stockholm have
reportedly taken to lurking outside the country’s largest eating
disorder clinic in search of fresh talent to bring back to their
agencies. The Stockholm Center for Eating Disorders brought the practice
to light in the city’s local Metro newspaper, where they lobbed
complaints about scouts handing off business cards to patients as young
as 14.
...
The center recalled one incident where a
patient in a wheelchair was approached by a top agent, and another
involving a 14-year-old girl whose mother and care coordinator had to
explain to the defensive recruiter that she was too ill to model.
Renzo Rosso has found the person to transform the Diesel brand he
founded 35 years ago for a new generation — Nicola Formichetti.
“I
finally met somebody as crazy as I am,” Rosso proclaimed in a Skype
interview after returning from a trip to Nepal. “I have replaced myself
and can go on vacation.”
More seriously, Rosso, 57, noted that
Formichetti, 35, will be responsible for “a total view of the Diesel
brand — product, communications, marketing and interior design. I want
him to do bigger things, different things. This is the right man to take
the next step for a young company and a brand for people who are young
of mind.”
Today, Nicola Formichetti was revealed as the first-ever Artistic Director of Diesel. A few weeks earlier, BoF’s Imran Amed conducted his latest CEO Talk with the man who started it all, Italian fashion entrepreneur Renzo Rosso.
I think [what] we are missing is an artistic director to bring the crazy, funny ideas like we did before. Finding someone who can understand Diesel is very difficult. Diesel is complex, complicated and unique. Our customers are expecting something very different. They don’t want to see traditional things.
I’ve followed Nicola Formichetti around the world. He has an incredible following, and made such a difference at Mugler from the very first show. I was incredibly impressed with the pop-up store he did in New York. I spent almost three hours inside that store! The way he arranged the clothes and the energy he brought to the space, it was great.
Diesel has never had a single creative director before, but now as I spend more time managing the group, I need to put the right people in the right job. And Nicola is the right man for this job.
Little wonder, therefore, that other local agencies are not terribly
impressed with the news that the cover of Australia's most prestigious
fashion title is off limits to anyone other than the world's biggest
model agency for almost half of 2013.
...
Noted another,
"We've got a big international company coming into town and all of these
amazing family businesses that have worked from grass roots and we all
feel really threatened. With IMG Models, there's no history there. It's just a very different place. It's pure business. IMG
[Models] are very successful worldwide because they have systems in
place and they are big and they are corporate and they are powerful.
Obviously it was a commercial decision but it takes out the fair playing
field. It's like an ad campaign for IMG. It also means that perhaps an
Australian model misses out being on the cover. Every young girl wants
to be on the cover of Vogue".
...
Vogue Australia editor-in-chief Edwina McCann:
"Miranda Kerr is a queen bee whose social media following dwarfs most. A brand in her own right, she is managed by IMG, the talent agency that also manages the careers of Venus Williams and Justin Timberlake and runs Mercedes-Benz Fashion Week in New York, London and Australia. Clearly IMG is a force to be reckoned with and now that its model agency doors have opened in Australia, we can expect many more of our young Mirandas to become international superbrands in the future".
Biannual fashion tome Love magazine has appointed stylist and longtime contributor Panos Yiapanis as fashion director-at-large, reporting to editor-in-chief Katie Grand. Over the last decade, independent stylist Yiapanis’ aesthetic, darkly romantic with nods to youth and counter culture, has been sought out by publications including i-D magazine, Vogue Italia, and W magazine, as well as fashion brands like Givenchy and Rick Owens.
Thierry Mugler is parting ways with Nicola Formichetti, the
super-stylist called in two years ago to rev up its inchoate fashion
business, WWD has learned.
...
Joel Palix, president of
Clarins Fragrance Group and director general of Mugler, is expected to
soon reveal a new strategic plan for Mugler “that builds on its highly
successful legacy in fragrance and its new momentum in fashion.”
“Nicola
has accomplished our original mission of bringing his energy to the
brand,” Palix said in a statement. “With his talent for communication
and understanding modern imagery and design, Nicola has been
instrumental in attracting a new audience which is undeniably crucial
for the future strategy of the house. He will be a historical part of
the Mugler legacy and known as the force that catapulted us forward.”
Sara was over Ole Henriksen SPA, and here told the clinician that should take care of our beauty editor that Helena Christensen soon launch its own line of organic body products and scented candles.
H&M has created a new collection inspired by four of the fashion industry's leading models. The New Icons range was created based on the street style of Joan Smalls, Daphne Groeneveld, Lindsey Wixson and Liu Wen.
Turning a page on its past as a retail-driven conglomerate, PPR said it is changing its name to Kering, effective June 18.
The
change in name and visual identity comes as the publicly traded French
group, controlled by the Pinault family, nears the completion of its
transformation to a fashion and accessories specialist in the luxury and
sport/lifestyle segments.
Speaking at a press conference, chief
executive officer Francois-Henri Pinault said the name has its roots in
the Brittany region of France, and connotes a house or foyer. Pinault
also unveiled a new logo - a stylized owl with a heart-shaped face - and
tagline, "Empowering Imagination."
So when it was announced in June 2012 that newly appointed creative
director Hedi Slimane was to alter not only the graphic language, but
also the actual nomenclature of the house, the tremors of disapproval
were felt all the way from Madison Avenue to Avenue Montaigne. When the
new logo made its first appearance a month later, the shrieks of
disapprobation went up a notch. To drop 'Yves' was disrespectful enough,
but to replace painter Cassandre's mythical 1961 YSL logotype
altogether was utter lunacy, surely?
But we beg to differ. Why?
Primarily because most of these knee-jerk, social media-fuelled
reactions were misinformed and ignorant. So we'd like to set the record
straight.
...
'It made sense today to transpose these
principles and recover the original name and typeface,' Slimane
explained in a rare interview. 'The name Rive Gauche disappeared in the
past then resurfaced several times. It seems intrinsic to the universe
of Yves Saint Laurent, without it being useful to refer to it literally
today. We thus went to the essential, a name that is written as it is
spoken every day: Saint Laurent, unequivocally.'
A flurry of French actors and actresses including Virginie Ledoyen,
Audrey Dana, Marina Foïs and Zabou Breitman were among guests at the
Parisian cabaret La Nouvelle Eve on Tuesday night as French chain Sushi
Shop unveiled a special box designed by Kate Moss.
The model is a
sushi fan, according to Sushi Shop. “We are opening our first London
location next month [the chain’s 100th restaurant] so it felt natural to
collaborate with her,” a spokeswoman for the restaurant explained. The
chain is also to open a second location in New York next month.
The box holds 40 pieces, for 45€. Available May 13.
What does that
mean in practice? That was the question bouncing around 4 Times Square
Wednesday. Wintour’s coronation was received by some as a positive
development for a company that some believe had lost its shimmer as
Newhouse became less involved. But there was also confusion. Save for
Vanity Fair editor in chief Graydon Carter and New Yorker editor David
Remnick, Condé’s not in the habit of consulting with top editors about
major institutional announcements like this. So when the official
statement went out, it raised more questions than answers. Will Wintour
attend print order previews? How would she divide her loyalties between
Vogue and the magazines she’s ostensibly been tasked with advising?
“We
have a lot of autonomy as editors,” one source said. “And certainly
while working under [Thomas J. Wallace, editorial director]. No one
wants to see that go away. People need a little more clarity.”
“We’re
not all friends here,” said another insider. “This is a competitive
building. We use the same photographers. We compete for the same
celebrities. This will be a gradual process as she finds areas she’d
like to investigate. Why else would she take the job if she wasn’t going
to do things with it?”
...
In January, Wintour’s path to
an ambassadorship looked narrower — other more prominent donors, with
experience in finance and foreign policy, had better chances. Townsend
said while attending a session during the WWD CEO Summit in early
January with Karl Lagerfeld that he came up with the right offer for
Wintour. He saw her as playing a similar role to Lagerfeld at Chanel:
brand Condé’s most visible ambassador.
“We picked up the
conversation that week,” Townsend said. Then, he brought up the
ambassadorship, he said, for the first time. “I said, ‘I really feel
this is the right role. We’ve been looking for the right handle. The
company genuinely believes it.’” But, he warned, ‘‘If you accept it, you
can’t then come and tell me you’ve accepted at a later date a job as an
ambassador.’”
Townsend said the new title ensures Wintour won’t entertain other distractions, political or not.
“It’s
not just a title. It’s not just to entice her to stay. The equation is
pretty clear. Yes, I do want her to spend her glory years at Condé
Nast,” he said.
