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Category: News

UK's ASA Goes After Miu Miu

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The UK publishers are lucky there isn't an Editorial Standards Authority. Imagine the mayhem that would ensue then.

The Guardian:


The ASA [Advertising Standards Authority ] said that the model’s youthful appearance, minimal makeup and slightly-too-large clothes contributed to the impression that she was under 16.

The decision to shoot the ad through a partially opened door, with the model reclining on a bed, gave the image a “voyeuristic feel”.

“We considered that the crumpled sheets and her partially opened mouth also enhanced the impression that her pose was sexually suggestive,” the ASA said.


Thailand is cool with it:

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It's Just Business

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Following Condé Nast's plans with Style.com & Vogue. Here are some action taking place with WWD & Refinery29.

WWD has released it's first weekly [print] issue and made most of it's articles available on its website.

The issue's theme is Who will build the powerhouse brands of tomorrow? A look at six of the industry's best bets. Those 6 are:


1- THE ROW: THE QUIET ONES
2- CHRISTOPHER KANE: THE STARGAZER
3- ALEXANDER WANG: THE ENERGIZER
4- PROENZA SCHOULER: THE ORIGINALS
5- CHITOSE ABE: THE ENIGMA
6- J.W. ANDERSON: THE THINKER


Fashionista has a good article with interviews about the direction WWD is taking overall.


Meanwhile, the weekly Wednesday print edition opens new possibilities for in-depth and topical industry coverage. The most striking change from the daily is the image resolution and paper, which allow for better graphic design. "[In a daily newspaper], style is subordinate to the substance, of getting the information on the page," he said. "Now, with this more sophisticated format, we're looking at style and substance finding a greater equilibrium." The advertisers are responding to that visual change, too.


Meanwhile, Some news on Refinery29. WWD reports:


Refinery 29 is dipping into video in a big way. The fashion and beauty Web site unveiled a host of new programs at its first Newfront presentation held at Skylight Modern in New York on Wednesday.

The company said it would add 29 video programs, including scripted comedies, tutorials and documentaries. Videos will cover a range of topics including style, politics, food, sex, health, wellness, travel and beauty. It’s part of a larger mission for the company to shrug off its image as a fashion and beauty-centric blog that also produces sponsored content for brands, and become a site for original storytelling both in video and in print.


As for the numbers, The NY Times reports as well on Refinery29:


Refinery29, a fashion and lifestyle media company, will announce on Tuesday that it has closed a $50 million round of financing from Scripps Networks Interactive and the advertising giant WPP. The investment values the company at about $300 million, according to a person with knowledge of the deal, and brings its total financing to $80 million.

...

The site grew to 15.9 million unique visitors in the United States in March, from 6.7 million in the same period last year, according to comScore. Refinery29 said its internal Google analytics showed traffic of about 25 million monthly unique visitors globally.

W & IMG Team Up On Model Search

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Fashionista:


Now, IMG is taking its international hunt to the next level by partnering with W magazine on the glossy's first-ever model search, which officially kicks off on Thursday. By tagging photos with #WmagModelSearch and #WLYG, hopefuls can have their photos seen (and judged) by the likes of Edward Enninful, W's style and fashion director, as well as famed photographer Mario Sorrenti, who both have worked with the likes of Lara Stone, Kate Moss, Daria Werbowy and many more over the years. If there is a duo who can truly launch a model's career into the stratosphere, it's this one.

“W is known for discovering fresh faces, spotlighting who’s next, and nurturing new talent, so we’re thrilled to team up with IMG for our first-ever model search,” said Enninful in a release about the competition. “Social media provides models with a new platform for expression and it is more powerful than ever — it can truly propel their careers — and we’re excited to be part of this movement.”

Condé Nast To Turn Style.com Into E-Commerce Player

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BoF: Condé Nast to Transform Style.com into Global E-Commerce Player


BoF can exclusively reveal that Condé Nast’s long-anticipated global e-commerce launch, set for the autumn, will transform Style.com into a shopping site and bring its editorial coverage under the umbrella of American Vogue.

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... its editorial content will be migrated to a new url, voguerunway.com, under the umbrella of American Vogue.

Vogue.com's New Site Almost Doubles It's Traffic In Less Than A Year

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Who has the best fashion media website these days? In my opinion Vogue, with Vogue.com. I think they nailed it last year when they released their latest design. That was in August 2014, at which time they claimed 3.3 million unique visitors a month. Today, according to Conde Nast, the site brings in 6 million unique visitors a month. That is pretty impressive, and by August this headline would most likely read "more than double".

The site has 94 million pageviews to go along with the 6 million uniques.


[I think the 5 billion "Press Impressions" above mean ad impressions? If so, it would equate to 5million cpm, which lets say at a $10cpm would equate to $50 million in revenue/month. Does that sound right?]


Back to the design. Besides being clean, clear, easy to navigate, and works on both computer and mobile, the site has two similar concepts designed to keep you within it's confines. The first is the auto loading of content on the categories' main pages, which allows you to keep scrolling down and it'll spit out more and more content in an endless stream (on style.com you have to manually click "load more"). The second and pretty clever-er trick is: once you're in an article page and you continue to scroll down to the bottom of it, the next article automatically loads. The wizardry here, that caught my attention, is that the URL in the browser changes automatically with it as well. I like to know how they did that trick, but I think these two things have a lot to do with the increase in pageviews, and mostly likely ad impressions.


There's much more to dig into but this is what I wanted to highlight quickly. As to other websites I like as well: Style.com & Vogue UK. But the one that needs a major overhaul is Vogue Italy, which is definitely out of web design fashion.

Did Industrie Magazine Shutter?

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I noticed this morning that industriemagazine.com's website forwards you to style.com. Their last issue was No.7, released in July 2014. Their Twitter account has not been updated since October 2014. Their Facebook page has not been updated since August 2014. So, what have you guys heard? Leave a comment of shoot me an email.

Manuela Pavesi Dies, Reports Katie Grand

Manuela Pavesi

UpdateWWD:


Italian stylist and photographer Manuela Pavesi died Friday in her hometown of Mantova after a long illness. She was 65. She is survived by her husband Sandro Furnari and their children Alice and Gianguido. A funeral service will be held on Saturday in Mantova, a two-hour drive east of Milan.


Katie Grand via Instagram:


Manuela you will be deeply missed. Heaven will be a much more elegant place with you


Manuela as BoF profiles:


Manuela Pavesi is Miuccia Prada’s right hand woman at Prada, in her role as fashion coordinator; she is also a renowned photographer. Pavesi’s womanly, charming and offbeat aesthetic has helped Miuccia Prada forge Prada into the directional authority, and international player it is today.

WWD Upgrading

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The gist is WWD is cutting the print issue from daily to weekly, and upgrading their online presence worldwide. They must still find some value in the print, hence the weekly. I'm curious if they considered a monthly along the way. Also, are they calling this WWW (Women's Wear Weekly)?

WWD: From the Editors: WWD Launching Weekly Format


On April 29, the print edition of WWD will launch in a new weekly format — with global fashion and retail news, striking photography, analysis, features, profiles, opinions and spirited coverage of the rich social and cultural scene that revolves around this creative and essential sector. The final daily print edition will be delivered on April 24.

To be clear, this doesn’t mean we’re discarding daily journalism. On the contrary, we’re doubling down with an enhanced and invigorated WWD.COM where you’ll see deeper editorial content, more breaking news and more stories around the clock. As part of this evolution, we’ll continue to expand our growing domestic editorial team as well as our international staff. WWD will open new bureaus this year in China and Brazil that add to our existing offices in Paris, Milan, London and Tokyo — as well as correspondents throughout the world.

Along with an enriched WWD.COM, we’ll produce a curated Digital Daily edition of WWD that will reflect our judgment of the top stories of the day.

Any subscriber who currently receives a daily newspaper will receive the weekly edition as well as the Daily Digital, which will be delivered via secure e-mail each day.

...

Why change?

The fashion and beauty industries today produce hundreds of billions of dollars globally, employing millions. And across sophisticated marketing, branding and distribution machinery, fashion and retail generate more individual wealth than any other industrial sector in the world. To embrace the far-reaching demand for actionable intelligence and breaking news, we need to erase geographic boundaries and eliminate obstacles to timely distribution. Geographic bias is a thing of the past, at least in this industry.

In a media age where algorithms, aggregation and native content have reshaped and destroyed many news organizations, WWD’s core values and mission remain. Get the story first. Be right. Be fair. And if an eccentric personality or two make things interesting along the way, so be it.

Jony & Marc To Open Luxury Conference

Jony Ive & Marc Newson

Vogue UK: Apple Design Visionaries To Open Luxury Conference



APPLE design visionaries Sir Jonathan Ive and Marc Newson will open the first Condé Nast International Luxury Conference in Florence in April 2015, it was announced today. The duo will appear in conversation with the event's host, Vogue international editor Suzy Menkes, to discuss the "21st century definition of luxury and their collaborative work to date".

"Apple is now a powerful part of the luxury industry," Menkes said today. "The iPhone, iPad, and the forthcoming Apple Watch are in direct competition with handbags, timepieces and high-end accessories. I want Jony Ive to tell the conference delegates where 21st century luxury is headed."

Condé Nast Germany Begins Threats Of Legal Action For Image Use

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I was going to post the new Vogue Germany cover, but was reminded of the email I received last month, from Condé Nast Germany's lawyer (pasted below). While I disagree with their thinking, it is what it is at the moment.

Supposedly I wasn't the only one threatened.

I've always viewed what I do here as promoting magazines, websites, models, agencies, etc... And other entities have learned to embrace sites like Fashion Copious and use them to their advantage, but here we are with Condé Nast Germany.

One thing I'm not clear about is if this came from their corporate/business offices, and if their actual editors would disagree with them.

I left the comment section open and love to hear any feedback, either about the legality of all this, readers thoughts, or opinion of editors. Feel free to leave a comment or email me.



Dr. Stefan Freytag of SFVD:


Dear Mr. Haro:

I represent Condé Nast Verlag GmbH, Karlstraße 23, 80333 Munich, Germany (“Condé Nast Germany”), the German subsidiary of Advance Publications, Inc.

It has come to our client’s attention that you are distributing on your website www.fashioncopious.typepad.com (see: [link] [link])

– without the required authorization, thus infringing our client’s copyright –  photos of a shoot which the model Anna Ewers very recently performed for the German edition of my client’s magazine VOGUE.

My client is the exclusive owner of all copyright and exploitation rights in this material that is for distribution in my client’s magazine VOGUE and on our client’s official website www.vogue.de only. Where my client sometimes authorizes the use of certain imagery for promotional and editorial use by other media, subject to certain conditions, my client has never authorized the use of the aforementioned imagery on your website.

As this is clearly not a case of user-generated content or the hosting of third-party content and therefore neither the DMCA safe harbors provisions nor any of their equivalents under European and applicable German law apply, it is merely for clarification that I stress that by receipt of this letter by you all necessary steps have been taken for immediate legal action in the German courts, should you not comply with the following.

Accordingly, I demand on behalf of Condé Nast Germany that you immediately and permanently cease and desist from distributing, copying and/or making available the photographs as set out above on your website www.fashioncopious.typepad.com and/or in any other media and respond to this letter immediately to confirm in writing that you will do so.

Should we discover continued evidence of unlawfully distributing, copying and/or making available the aforementioned photographs by you, we will take legal action as we deem appropriate in co-ordination with Condé Nast’s U.S. legal advisors.

This letter is not a complete statement of Condé Nast Germany’s rights in connection with this matter and nothing contained herein constitutes an express or implied waiver of any rights, remedies or defenses in connection with this matter, all of which are expressly reserved.

Very truly yours,
Dr. Stefan Freytag
Rechtsanwalt