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Category: News

Remembering

Timeline-08

WWD: Fashion Industry and Friends Remember Oscar de la Renta



Francisco Costa, women's creative director for Calvin Klein Collection: “I’m really upset. I started my career with him and worked there six years. He taught me a lot. It was always very family-like. It’s very tender to think that he left in such a way. We are going to miss him. He was a father to me in a way. He really embraced everyone in the studio, not just me. I’m sorry I didn’t get to spend more time with him. He was a man of beauty. He surrounded himself with beauty; he surrounded himself with the best. I don’t think there’s another person today who understands living, the sort of fine line between old and new, in a sense. He embraced the sensibility of the old with the great style of how we live today. He lived, full-on. Everything was important to him. The scent, the color, the way he set a table, the way he entertained, the way he greeted people. Also his kindness, his charity. With kids, schools, he always gave back. I also love the fact that he was a fighter. Oscar had a fantastic sense of humor. He could be quite tough. Not mean, but quite twisted. Which is wonderful to think that he still had that sense of humor. He could fight and instigate. He was that kind of man. I was very pleased to have been part of his world.”



Also: Anna Wintour Remembers Oscar de la Renta

Oscar de la Renta Dead At 82

21delarenta-superJumbo-v2

NY Times:


Oscar de la Renta, the doyen of American fashion, whose career began in the 1950s in Franco’s Spain and sprawled across the better living rooms of Paris and New York, and who was the last survivor of that generation of bold, all-seeing tastemakers, died on Monday at his home in Kent, Conn. He was 82.

His death was confirmed by his wife, Annette de la Renta.

Flying Rumor: Shayne Oliver to Replace Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy

Shayne Oliver

User jilslander on fashin:


Apparently Shayne Oliver has been approached to replace Riccardo at Givenchy


In response to "where did you hear that" he replies:


From a colleague but can't exactly sayyy


Let's take this with a grain of salt, for now, but why it could be a possiblity. Riccardo joined Givenchy in 2005 and next year will mark his 10 year helm; he might want to start a new chapter in his life. Shayne Oliver has the buzz and talent and hence Givenchy's possible interest in him.

In his 032c interview:


So what are your ambitions? Where is this thing in 20 years? Where are you?

I think HBA is like a house of commentary that has a viewpoint. I wanna make actual physical spaces and figure out more how to blend the different worlds and realities. It’s funny how kids are around each other. It’s weird how technology is acting as our subconscious. It’s about figuring out how to relate that to the actual adult world. That stuff interests me. Having a school of HBA and constantly teaching people what’s on in this world. I’m always about listening to what makes me feel like I’m old. I never question. I always think kids got it going on. You know they’re the ones affected by it, so they know. Cause even if it’s hyperreal or it’s fake, that means the world is becoming fake. We should all pay attention to what they’re saying.

"Never tell anybody outside the family what you're thinking again." —Don Corleone to Sonny

John-galliano

Dov Update & The Artistic Realm

American Apparel Instagram
American Apparel/Instagram

While the New York Times reported on 29 September that American Apparel Hires New Interim Chief Executive, yesterday Bloomberg reported that American Apparel [is] Said to Be Open to Keeping Charney:


The retailer, which ousted Charney as CEO almost four months ago in an acrimonious split, is considering giving him a new role, said the people, who asked not to be identified because the deliberations are private. In the meantime, Charney is serving as a paid strategic consultant.

[and]

Despite the feud, Charney has stayed active at the chain, including giving instructions to staff and visiting stores, according to some of the people.



In recent news:

Daily Beast: In Defense of American Apparel: Why a Hitched-Up Skirt Barely Conceals a Profound Social Confusion


Blame American Apparel, call them smut peddlers, tut and criticize all you like; and then turn the pages of the Daily Mail’s website for pictures perving over Taylor Swift’s “thigh-skimming frock,” featuring “sheer blue gingham fabric…hark(ing) back to schoolgirl summer uniforms with a pretty pointed flat white collar.”



In Relation, Brooke Shields, in 2011:


Keith Haring once apologised to her for objectifying her by using her Calvin Klein image next to a naked guy’s. “I was like, ‘Are you kidding? It’s a huge compliment!’ I guess if I’d fallen prey to someone, or become a statistic and fallen into drugs, then it would be different, but I stayed unscathed. Becoming part of pop culture, part of the art, made it less personal.” After all, she points out, Pretty Baby was made by Louis Malle, and The Blue Lagoon shot by renowned cinematographer Néstor Almendros: “I wasn’t on 42nd Street being photographed with a little camera. I was never out of the artistic realm.”


Earlier in the same Shields article:


She may be hamming it up, but Brooke Shields knows every highway and byway of child stardom. She was a shampoo advert model at the age of 11 months; at 12 she was playing a pre-teen prostitute in Pretty Baby. She made The Blue Lagoon and Endless Love as a teenager. A Calvin Klein jeans advertisement she posed for in 1980, aged 15, featured her purring, “Nothing comes between me and my Calvins.”

The same year, she became the youngest cover model of Vogue and was reputed to be earning $10,000 a day.

Kate Moss & Stella McCartney for Breast Cancer Awareness

Kate Moss & Stella McCartney for Breast Cancer Awareness

Yahoo!:



Oct. 1 is the kickoff date for Breast Cancer Awareness Month and Kate Moss has revealed — very literally — a new campaign with Stella McCartney to support the cause. The British designer, who just showed her Spring/Summer 2015 collection at Paris Fashion Week, created a hot pink lingerie set. The bras and underwear are special edition of her Gemma Relaxing line, which is priced between $40 and $80, will hopefully encourage and remind women to give themselves self-exams when getting dressed and proceeds from the sales will support the Linda McCartney Centre in the U.K..


Also: Stella McCartney Apologizes After Posting Photo of Shockingly Thin Model

The Fashion Industry's Apple Watch Reaction

Apple Watch

Apple Watch

Some of what I came across:

Lisa Armstrong for The Telegraph:



The Apple Watch certainly multi-tasks and looks terrific, although most of us will deploy a fraction of its potential.

Would I like one? Yes. I love watches, and I'm a sucker for a good looking gadget.

...the company is entering the style arena. It should be one hell of a show.




Irman Amed for Business of Fashion:



What’s more, just as the iPod, iPhone and iPad created a whole new leather goods category dedicated to carrying tech accessories, I would also expect a similar mini-industry to sprout up around the new Apple Watch. Might traditional luxury brands like Hermès, Gucci or Louis Vuitton create their own straps or accessories for Watch?

Watch this space. Apple has just completely changed the game.




Lauren Goodman for Yahoo! Style:



Tech companies think ‘style is easy, just sprinkle on top with a couple of celebrities’. Today it looks like Apple came prepared, and is moving into style with style!”




Susy Menkes for Vogue Paris:



I tried to absorb the vast possibilities of personalisation and a fantasy of functions.

And I still don’t know whether the fashion world will embrace this smartest of watches, or whether a new generation that has its phone as a timepiece will find the wristbands compelling.



Additionally:



“The Apple Watch will be a status symbol to carry,” —Eric Wilson / InStyle Magazine


“It is immaculate in terms of how function meets design. The issue is really about how much people want to wear something so clearly, essentially an amazing gadget,” —Alexandra Shulman / British Vogue


I didn't think I was going to wear it pre-announcement, and now, absolutely," —Joe Zee


"I think it's going to be huge," —Joanna Coles / Cosmopolitan editor-in-chief


"It's kind of dorky," —Alexa Chung.


"I would never replace my Rolex for that watch.” —Todd Snyder / Designer



Most iPhone users will eventually use/wear it. Some before others, naturally. If you can't imagine yourself without a smartphone in 2014, this will be the case, a few years from now, with the Apple Watch. Which is why Apple didn't need to worry about the fashion crowed: You're wearing the Apple Watch for the technology/functionality/and life enhancements it brings you, not fashion; and if its technology is irresistible then people will wear it.

Anja Rubik for Dom Pérignon & Iris Van Herpen Collaboration Video by Daniel Sannwald

DP-04-454x640

Iris Van Herpen:


This exclusive new collaboration combines Iris van Herpen’s forward-thinking aesthetic with the Dom Pérignon champagne’s playful expression, limitless innovation and taste for reinvention. She won the prestigious ANDAM fashion award (2014 grand prize).

Dom Pérignon Metamorphosis by Iris van Herpen marks the end of Dom Pérignon Vintage 2004 as we know it in its first Plénitude and celebrates its pending metamorphosis into P2, or Second Plénitude of the Dom Pérignon Vintage. All that we know may disappear for a time, but it will rise again – transformed and reinvented.

The new limited edition centers upon metamorphosis: signifying the closure of one period and the birth of another, and a powerful symbol of evolution, transformation and renaissance. Throughout its history, the Dom Pérignon champagne has been intricately linked to the concept of metamorphosis. The spiritual legacy of Dom Pierre Pérignon constantly reinvents itself throughout the ages, selectively choosing when to emerge in the form of a new vintage.


Linda Evangelista by Steven Klein at Anita's Way Sept 7-11, 7-8pm

Linda Evangelista by Steven Klein at Anita's Way

Trailer

Timeout:


This [Anita's Way] public plaza connects the Condè Nast and Bank of America buildings, and occasionally hosts site-specific performances. It was named after Anita Durst, founder of Chashama, which transforms vacant properties into artists' spaces.

Yahoo Style

Yahoo Style

Joe Zee Unviels the new Yahoo Style

Fashionista:


"Online, you are inundated with things that are so quick – Twitter feeds, Instagram feeds. A website can be a lot of breaking news, but [Yahoo Style] is so much more; because it's fashion, it's much more about visuals and ideas you can get into," Zee says.Yahoo Style will be more focused on reacting to news than covering it straight-up, he adds, giving the much-covered story of Angelina Jolie's Versace-designed wedding dress as an example. "Everyone is breaking news that Angelina got married, that she wore Versace. For me, what I love about that Versace dress is that she put her kids' [drawings] on it – most moms put those on the fridge, but she put them her on wedding dress. We might do a story then about how you incorporate elements of personalization into your wedding dress."

The Age of Controversy & Apology

Zara

Fast Design: Zara Pulls Shirt From Stores Because People Say It Resembles A Concentration Camp Uniform


Fast fashion retailer Zara has pulled a striped top with a six-pointed yellow star decal from its stores after social media users complained it resembled the uniforms worn by Jewish prisoners in concentration camps during World War II.

The shirt was a pajama top meant for children ages three months to three years. Zara claims the star on the front was meant to resemble a sheriff’s badge, inspired by “classic Western films”--the star has the word “sheriff” imprinted on it, but the word wasn’t clear in photos on the retailer’s website. Critics took to social media to point out the resemblance between the top and the uniforms of victims of the Holocaust

[About the yellow star]

The New Vogue.com

Vogue

Vogue.com

New York Times: A Makeover for Vogue’s Website, With a Faster Pace for Covering News



The new site has its own expanded staff now and its own space in the headquarters of its parent company, Condé Nast. It will cover news at a faster pace and will now mount its own fashion shoots. Familiar web fashion staples, like street style photographs, will continue to appear.

“The technology has obviously changed since Sally came on board,” Ms. Wintour said. “We can be much quicker, nimbler, make much more content available.”

It also has a redesigned look, with a cleanliness that has become the new convention for online design, created for easy navigation on a mobile device. Only one advertiser will appear on each page.

...

The site draws about 3.3 million unique visitors a month, Vogue says. (New York Magazine’s fashion site, The Cut, gets about four million, it says.)