Given the sexually-charged vibe of the story,
however, not to mention Kadel's well-documented portrayal of BDSM
themes and fetish accessories in his recent fashion work, another
possibility swiftly sprang to mind: breath play.
termed as hypoxyphilia, asphyxiophilia or sexual/erotic asphyxia, breath
play or breath control play refers to the intentional restriction of
oxygen to the brain for sexual arousal and heightened pleasure via a
bewildering array of breath play accessories that are on the market
(including this somewhat hilarious jogging suit). Not to mention the
cheaper, more easily-accessed devices of ropes, ligatures, plastic bags
and yes, cling wrap.
Frockwriter contacted both Kadel and McNeil,
one of the world's most high profile models, to enquire if the
deliberate inclusion of cling wrap in not one but two photos and,
notably, McNeil's simulated (one assumes) gasping was a celebration of
breath play? And if so, does either have any concerns about being
perceived to be glamorizing same?
McNeil did not respond to our request for comment.
But we did receive the following from Greg Kadel Studios manager Ernesto Qualizza:
no way was it our intention to simulate Breathplay and the use of the
cling wrap was purely aesthetic. The story is indeed art and as such
open to interpretation" - Greg Kadel Studios
Some think that great fashion films are driven by exactly the same
concerns as great fashion photographs where the visual or stylistic
story comes first. But Pernet — who has been uniquely positioned to see
the medium evolve from its earliest days — is clear that a successful
fashion film needs a narrative. “For me, the criteria of what’s a good
film and what’s a good fashion film are really quite the same, except
that [with the latter] fashion has to be the protagonist. Just because
someone is moving in front of the camera, it doesn’t make it a film. A
film has a story.”
One of the key problems with the genre, today,
is that there aren’t enough actual filmmakers making fashion films, she
continued. “Every photo agent forces their photographers to make a film
and they’re not filmmakers. Some make the transition easily. People
like Bruce Weber have been doing it for ten to fifteen years — and Ellen
von Unwerth. But others don’t understand that just because somebody is
moving, it doesn’t make it a film.
Twenty years after Vanity Fair special correspondent Maureen Orth
reported on the sexual-abuse case involving Woody Allen and Mia Farrow’s
adopted daughter Dylan, Orth reconnects with Farrow to discuss her
human-rights work, her relationship with Frank Sinatra, the home she
created for her 14 adopted and biological children, and the scandal that
nearly destroyed it, 20 years ago. For her piece in the November issue,
Orth talks to eight of Farrow’s children, including the long-silent
Dylan, who speaks on the record for the first time about the alleged
Farrow discusses her relationship with Frank Sinatra,
telling Orth that Sinatra was the great love of her life, and says, “We
never really split up.” When asked point-blank if her biological son
with Woody Allen, Ronan Farrow, may actually be the son of Frank
Sinatra, Farrow answers, “Possibly.” No DNA tests have been done.
speaks to Farrow’s children, including Dylan, who now has another name
and who discusses what she remembers about Allen and how his behavior
has tormented her. She refuses ever to say his name. She calls her fears
“crippling” and says, “I’m scared of him, his image.” Dylan tells Orth,
“I have never been asked to testify. If I could talk to the
seven-year-old Dylan, I would tell her to be brave, to testify.”
to Dylan, “There’s a lot I don’t remember, but what happened in the
attic I remember. I remember what I was wearing and what I wasn’t
wearing.” She tells Orth, “The things making me uncomfortable were
making me think I was a bad kid, because I didn’t want to do what my
elder told me to do.” The attic, she says, pushed her over the edge. “I
was cracking. I had to say something. I was seven. I was doing it
because I was scared. I wanted it to stop.” For all she knew, she tells
Orth, “this was how fathers treated their daughters. This was normal
interaction, and I was not normal for feeling uncomfortable about it.”
Woody Allen’s lawyer Elkan Abramowitz says that Allen still denies the
allegations of sexual abuse.
I brush my teeth with Marvis Classic Strong Mint toothpaste, and every other morning, I shave. I don’t look good in a beard, and I find them to be too itchy. I use the classic drugstore shaving cream that comes in a red can—Barbasol—and throw-away Bic razors. I find the razors to be incredibly comfortable, and convenient. You use them once, then throw them away! Recently I’ve been using Baxter of California After-Shave Balm, and I really love it. It’s a cream, rather than an alcohol-based aftershave, so it’s very good on the skin. Plus, it smells lemon-y. I like that.
My perception of Bethann, especially after reading this interview, is that she's super smart. A woman who understand this industry well, with the historical knowledge of it behind
her. She also has a strong perspective and point of view. So for those of us who would dismiss her for her black-model activism is a bit shortsighted. Maybe she was hasty to call certain individuals racists, but she seems to be backtracking on that a little:
I don’t want the people whose names are on the list to think that I think that they’re bad or racist, but the act is definitely.
That being said, I would give her the benefit of the doubt. Maybe it's time for us to pause and think this whole issue through.
Thinking this just a little, 3 points that come to mind for the lack of blacks on the runway:
1- Racism. It exists, let's not be blind fools.
2- Aesthetics. It's a choice which we should respect.
3- Smaller pool of blacks to choose from, compared to whites/Asians. Bethann was fair in this point as well:
If you’re going to use a girl of color, don’t just grab a girl of color, you really make sure that girl of color is competitive to her white counterpart. Just the way you scrutinize her, please scrutinize us because I’d rather them use none than use one or two bad ones.
As I'm writing this...what might really be lacking is an effort to acquiring a taste for black models. To look at them in a renewed light. To understand what makes them unique; then accentuate that strength, and celebrate it. A talented casting director can successfully blend a show, made up of whites/blacks/asians/ect.
Here, in an exclusive preview, the curator speaks to Style.com about
bringing a “new-old” museum back to life, what sets Alaïa apart, and how
Swinton has inspired him to take up
How did you approach Alaïa about the exhibition? I
first mentioned it to him years ago. Two years later, he invited me to
dinner. I don’t really remember when he said yes, because he never says
no, even if that’s what he means. Then, a year ago, he put his
collection on hold because this exhibition was coming up. I’ve never met
another designer who would do that. What’s interesting about Alaïa is
that he takes the time to understand and see things. He approaches his
clothes like a sculptor or an architect or a writer, and he often says,
“I make clothes; women make fashion.”
The camera in the iPhone 5S basically moved the needle two years ahead
of the entire camera industry. Not just smart phone cameras — all
cameras. There is a well known photography adage that states “the best
camera is the one that’s with you”. Well, if you have an iPhone 5S that
statement will remain true no matter what other camera you may have
available. This is largely because the new 64bit processor means that
they have all the raw processing power they need to be able to execute
features and techniques that not even the most expensive professional
SLR cameras can deliver.
And, what is interesting and absolutely
marvelous about what Apple is doing here is that, when approaching how
to make the best camera available today (and, I feel the need to stress,
not just the best phone camera), they knew that did not mean specs.
That it was not about who had the most megapixels, or biggest lens, or
largest sensor. They know that none of that, at the end of the day
matters. What mattered, in fact, was the one thing that, in a race to
equate more megapixels with “better”, even most of the camera industry
had too long overlooked. Apple focussed solely on how they could use
that massive and fast 64bit processor combined with industry first
features and ideas to do one thing — give you the best looking photos.
And, if you can get that right when you take the photo, you don’t need a
bunch of software to “fix it in post”. It’s all about capture.
WWD: Innovation? F.C.: Today, you cannot live without it. It’s a very
competitive market. We went from having four collections a year to
having eight collections a year. You have to keep up. Fearlessness is a
WWD: A difficult condition to achieve. F.C.: The most difficult.
WWD: That Calvin statement you alluded to, what was it? F.C.:
“We stand for being modern, contemporary, sophisticated, pure, natural
and often minimal. Consistent. And, we stand for sex in a very big way.
We are a brand that can affect youth and people of any age.”
I have my own mind and I cannot be led a stray from what I believe in, I’m very relaxed, immature but mature as hell when it comes to business. I know when to have a laugh, but know when it’s time to be serious. I don’t believe in dictating to anyone how anyone should be or dress, for example trends and season. I stay true to myself, and I wont let anything or anyone make me conform to what society wants us to be. If people don’t like, it I just don’t really give a fuck.
What qualities do you look for in a model?One thing we look for is someone who is going to be extremely positive and dedicated and is going to take it extremely seriously. You’re only going to get by so far by being the highest-stakes con artist in the world. Social interactions with this industry are key. You’re at a fitting with Karl Lagerfeld or John Galliano, or you’re on a shoot with people like Fabien [Baron] or Steven [Meisel]—they’re going to want to know that they can relate to you, that you understand their visual language. The people who work in this industry, whether it’s a designer or a photographer, are passionate. They know everything there is about it. They don’t want to surround themselves with tourists … The most important and relevant models are those who understood that.
This is a naive question, but if they were doing so great already, why did they come to you? What more could you have given them?I didn’t really know, but I got very passionate about it. I was working 20 hours a day. I was living with Linda in Paris. I was spending my time with all of them going on shoots, going backstage, traveling. So maybe they liked how passionate I was about their careers. I love photographers, I love designers. I guess that did translate in our relationship. It was a very strong moment for all of us. We felt the sky was the limit.
“I like simplicity and coziness,” says the renowned Brazilian beauty. “I want to live in a place that feels like a real home, where you can put your feet up on the couch and just relax.” Brady seconds the notion: “Gisele and I have eight sisters between us, and there are lots of kids. We built this house as a sanctuary for our family—a place where we can enjoy being together.”