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Category: Good Reads

Clear & Singular

Jony Ive Vogue

Vogue: A Rare Look at Design Genius Jony Ive: The Man Behind the Apple Watch



In the clutter of contemporary culture, where hits and likes threaten to overtake content in value, the purity of an idea takes on increasing currency. “I think now more than ever it’s important to be clear, to be singular,” he says, “and to have a perspective, one you didn’t generate as the result of doing a lot of focus groups.” Developing concepts and creating prototypes leads to “fascinating conversations” with his team, says Ive. “It’s a process I’ve been practicing for decades, but I still have the same wonder.”

Good Reads | That Apple Watch

Apple Watch

Two of the best perspectives, on the [Luxury] Apple Watch, I've read since its announcement.


John Gruber:


In short: hundreds for Sport, a thousand for stainless steel, thousands for gold.

Most people think I’m joking when I say the gold ones are going to start at $5,000.

...

There should be no confusion on that last part. The Apple Watch Edition is solid 18-karat gold, not gold-plated. I confirmed this with Apple last week.




Jonathan S. Geller:



Apple is in a completely different world here with the Apple Watch, and the same rules that apply to consumers purchasing phones or computers don’t apply to people purchasing luxury goods at all. Do you really think it costs Hermes $8,500 to make a Birkin? Do you really think Christian Louboutin shoes cost $1,500 to manufacture? You do realize that all of Louis Vuitton’s monogram products are not even leather, they are basically plastic, right?

When you’re talking about luxury goods, fashion and art, the the price you pay is not related to what it costs to make or to the value. One of the reasons is because this is an entirely artificial industry that is created solely for companies to make a profit. It is one in which you can own something that almost no one else is going to own; you were willing to pay whatever it takes to get it, and it says something about your personality, good or bad (I’m not here to debate that last point).

Good Reads | John Richardson's Arcadia

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T Style Magazine: The Personal Arcadia of John Richardson



Sitting on the bench with the sphinx heads, Richardson mused: “Some people say to me: ‘Oh John, how could you put something so hideous in front of your house!’ But they don’t understand that bad taste is an essential ingredient in the pudding. It takes the curse off ghastly good taste.”

Mario Sorrenti Interview

Mario Sorrenti
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American Photo: Interview: Mario Sorrenti is a Visionary Rebel



Sorrenti’s desire to remain relevant fuels a recent campaign for the CK One fragrance line (#ckmeforme), which employs  Millennial creatives including  photographer Petra Collins and musician Dev Hynes (aka Blood Orange) and the singer Samantha Urbani. He shot a bevy of models, many found on Instagram and Facebook, who appear partially clad with sexually ambiguous expressions in selfie-inspired GIFs, still photos, and 
videos splattered on the campaign’s Tumblr page.
 
“The whole idea is about self-exploration through photography and film and social media,” Sorrenti says. “We used everything from digital cameras to iPhones to little point-and-shoots. We used high-res video cameras and throwaway cameras. We created environments where kids could just go and be on their own and we gave them cameras. And we mixed all that material with what we made.”

Charlotte Rampling by Paolo Roversi for Interview Magazine

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Interview Magazine: Charlotte Rampling


I felt very special in Paris, more special than I felt in London. I love London for different reasons. I've always been close to London, being English. But somehow there's something special about living as an Englishwoman in Paris.

Good Reads | Jonathan Van Meter

Jonathan Van Meter

BoF: Jonathan Van Meter and the Age of Celebrity



“I remember one time being in a meeting,” he recalls, “and it was always important to put a number on the cover, something like ‘600 Day Looks for Fall.’ Someone said, ‘We counted all of the looks and there aren’t 600 looks!’ and Anna said, ‘Did you count every pair of shoes?’

‘Yes, we did,’ came the reply.

‘Well did you count every bracelet?’ she countered.

‘Is a bracelet a look?’

And, in a way that only she could, Anna says: ‘Yes, a bracelet is a look.’”

Maja Salamon & Ysaunny Brito by Paolo Roversi for W September 2014

Maja Salamon & Ysaunny Brito by Paolo Roversi for W September 2014 1 Maja Salamon & Ysaunny Brito by Paolo Roversi for W September 2014 1
W Magazine: Saving Grace


Maria Grazia Chiuri and Pierpaolo Piccioli are reinventing Valentino’s legendary elegance for the next generation. Meet the keepers of the flame as they open the new Valentino flagship in New York.

Good Reads | Alessandro Dell’Acqua

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W: Alessandro Dell’Acqua: A Man For All Seasons


Five years after losing his namesake 
label, the designer has a new 
gig at Rochas and a line of his own.

Good Reads | Natalie Massenet

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032c: Net-A-Porter’s NATALIE MASSENET: “I wanted to call my website What’s New, Pussycat?”



Fifteen years later, Massenet has just launched Porter magazine, the first 100-percent shoppable print publication. “People always say to me, ‘You’ve really strived to redefine retail.’ But the reality is I wanted to redefine magazines.” It’s been called the biggest launch in British fashion publishing for years, and it may well represent a new synthesis of retail and media. “We’re building a physical temple to our brand – 
like Apple did with stores,” Massenet explains. 
Her competitors are boiling, so she must be doing something right.

Good Reads | Inside Prada’s Dream Factory

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NY Magazine: Step Inside Prada’s Dream Factory With Patrizio Bertelli, Miuccia’s Partner in All Things


But what we essentially mean by artisan is a top-quality product—it’s not necessarily handmade, but it’s made via processes that have a long history.”

★ Yep

WWD: Fashion Advertising: Controversy — Where Has It Gone?



Controversy09Outrageous, edgy fashion ads that get everybody talking. Where did they go?

Gone are the scandalous days of Calvin’s rippling abs and come-hither youth; Abercrombie’s S&M Santa; the full-frontal Saint Laurent; Benetton’s kissing clergy, and Jenny McCarthy doing her business on Candie’s toilet.

It wasn’t controversy that killed them. On the contrary, such controversy successfully put these and other brands squarely into the limelight, for better or worse.

But after shifts from the shocking and sexually suggestive to the socially conscious and lifestyle aspirational, the fashion industry has entered a new state: tame.

Blame it on the media. With so much corporate emphasis on having the right social campaign, Instagram, Twitter feeds, videos, Web sites and the goal of accumulating “likes” on Facebook, not to mention global, cross-cultural sensitivities, the edge that cuts through the advertising clutter has been dulled.

To be sure, there’s no shortage of talented photographers who take beautiful pictures, but some observers argue that intensely image-conscious companies, public or otherwise, are so intent on controlling how they’re perceived, advertising has simply become too safe. And safe equates with boring.

Stoya by Molly Matalon for DIS Magazine

Stoya by Molly Matalon for DIS Magazine

DIS Magazine:



Ada: Are there any porn films you would call art?

Stoya: Nowadays,  the production and release schedule for films  is so fast that there’s usually not much room to be creative. A porn film that definitely transcends the genre is Café Flesh, an incredible  adult film from the ‘80s. The plot is basically a metaphor for porn, and the film is so centered around the theme of pornography; it folds onto itself and becomes art almost by accident.