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Category: Good Reads

Good Reads | Arguably The Most Important Photographer In America

GQ: Ryan McGinley: Naked and Famous



GQ Ryan McGinleyIn the beginning, Ryan McGInley was an outsider. He used his band of beautiful friends to create photographs—rarely not naked but never quite sexy—that he now calls "evidence of fun." But in the past decade, McGinley's vision has evolved and expanded into a tidal wave of influence, affecting the look of art, advertising, music videos, film, even Instagram—and making him arguably the most important photographer in America. So why are so many of us just learning his name?

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“It's no longer interesting for me to wait for things to happen,” he says. “I want to ask people to do things.” The operational complexity is daunting. There are insurance policies to take out, van drivers to vet, motel deposits to make, water bottles to buy in bulk. It's all in service of maintaining a safe, hassle-free atmosphere, which, not coincidentally, happens to be the type that produces good photographs.

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“I really don't like when people say, ‘New York is boring now. New York isn't like it used to be.’ I hate that. It's one of my pet peeves. No, motherfucker, you're boring! You're not like you used to be.”

Good Reads | Purple Teller Interview

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[When you get to the link you'll need to click on the text portion of the image to have the interview appear]


Purple: JUERGEN TELLER



The brillant German artist and photographer recently took on the digital revolution without tarnishing his radical aesthetic. What’s his formula?
 
 
Interview by OLIVIER ZAHM and LILY MCMENAMY

Vogue Italia's Franca Sozzani Against Domestic Violence In Latest Issue

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Model Natalie Westling by Steven Meisel

Independent:


Editor-in-chief Franca Sozzani has dedicated issues of Vogue Italia to rehab, fighting racism, the 2010 BP oil spill and cosmetic surgery addiction. Her latest April edition takes a stand against domestic violence. Alexander Fury talks exclusively to Sozzani about rebellion, provocation and why fashion is more than just clothes

Tisci On Nike

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AnOther Magazine:


To celebrate the launch of Riccardo Tisci's Nike white collection today, we share Susanah Frankel's inteview with the designer from the current issue of AnOther Magazine.

“When you’re European and you think of America you think, okay, Obama, the American flag, Coca-Cola. You think McDonald’s and Marlboro. And then you think Nike,” says Riccardo Tisci of probably the most coveted sportswear name in the world. “It’s pure somehow, very clean. It’s about health, dynamism, sport…”

Don't Touch This

Raf Simons Speaking to Tim Blanks for Interview Magazine:



Obviously, with the birth of ready-to-wear, there were new rules for couture to make it as exclusive and unique as possible, and I'm fine with that, because otherwise what would make it different? But what I don't understand is why it became this incredible don't-touch thing that people just look at. For me, it's the opposite. I want it to be a thing that women want to wear, because it's unique to them. But my point is more that there is a young generation out there with an interest in fashion, and they almost think about couture as something that has to be out of reach. And they get aggressive at the idea that couture can relate to the 21st century women. That is, for me, completely shocking.

Cathy Horyn: Slave No More

Cathy Horyn, for T Style Magazine Spring 2014:



16womens-look-sign1-tmagArticleBy now, I suspect, most people know that the purpose of runway shows is entertainment, and to create a feeling of desire. They understand that the main interest of high-fashion companies is economic rather than aesthetic. It’s to sell products and capture new markets, much as Coca-Cola and Apple do.

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Lately I’ve noticed many more women, all of them in the zone of careers and complicated family routines, all of them with an eye for fashion, gravitating toward an almost boyish uniform of slim-cut trousers, pullovers and flat shoes. Or a leather jacket with bland layers underneath. They’re hardly wearing makeup, so their complexions look fresh. (We all know that too much makeup ages everyone.) At the last round of shows in Paris, I noted that even my French sisters had begun to ditch their adored stilettos for low heels. That was quite a concession for them, I thought. Something must be up, because those women don’t do anything on a whim.


Porter's Typography

Speaking to Fashionista, the Porter team discuss the focus of the magazine:


A focus on typography: Yeomans said that she wanted to take the best of what traditional magazines have to offer and fuse it with the best of the new, digital age. Inspired by the magazines of the ’50s and ’60s, Porter developed a number of custom fonts — the main type is aptly called “Porter” — and plans to keep the captions short, letting the images do the talking. “The loopy ‘e’ in Porter is a cheeky nod to e-commerce,” Yeomans said of the new font.


Also, a note of interest: the 14 minutes video interview, of the Porter team, that Business of Fashion released two days ago only had 4341 views to date. I would have guessed that a site with, as of Feb 2013, 150K monthly users would have had a larger number of views. That 150K a year later would have also grown, obviously. I'm speaking out loud here, and sharing this, out of my own interest in these kind of things, and as one who runs a fashion site. It is good to keep in mind that the longer a video is the less views it will have, and it's the kind of video that people might be saving to view on a weekend.

Good Reads | Marc's Major Makeover

W Magazine: Re-Making His Marc


That Jacobs remains this excited about the company he founded 21 years ago is a rarity in an industry defined by jaded nonchalance—and among his most remarkable assets as a designer, one he hopes will guide him in the next chapter of a career marked by a continual defiance of expectations. During his 16 years at Vuitton, for instance, Jacobs created the template for how thoroughly a contemporary designer can revive a historic brand, transforming what was a stuffy prestige luggage house into the fashion-forward juggernaut it is today.

Good Reads | Marie-Amélie Sauvé

BoF: The Creative Class | Marie-Amélie Sauvé, Stylist and Fashion Consultant


Marie-Amélie SauvéAs she prepares for what may be her biggest job to date, Marie-Amélie Sauvé sat down with BoF to discuss her career and, for the first time, her work alongside Nicolas Ghesquière at Louis Vuitton.

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Sauvé says she has “tons of stories” about working with the legendary lensman Guy Bourdin. “I was so scared of him and he had this little voice. But on my first day at Vogue they told me never to say ‘No’ to him, because of how important and special he was. The first thing Bourdin asked me on a shoot was ‘I want the clouds in the sky for my picture.’ So, of course, I said, ‘Absolutely, sir, I’ll get them, no problem.’” To this date, Sauvé says she tries to never say ‘No.’

Good Reads | The Road to Geekdom

Replace Geek with [blank]:

Hypercritical:


28_lipjob_lgYou don’t have to be a geek about everything in your life—or anything, for that matter. But if geekdom is your goal, don’t let anyone tell you it’s unattainable. You don’t have to be there “from the beginning” (whatever that means). You don’t have to start when you’re a kid. You don’t need to be a member of a particular social class, race, sex, or gender.

Geekdom is not a club; it’s a destination, open to anyone who wants to put in the time and effort to travel there.

Jacobs Saw The Forest, Teller The Trees

Miley Cyrus  for Marc Jacobs SS 2014 Campaign

FT: The art of new beginnings


You know, the one that long-term Jacobs collaborator Juergen Teller refused to shoot, because he doesn’t like Cyrus. The one that Jacobs was so committed to, he chose Cyrus over Teller, and got David Sims to photograph instead. What did Jacobs understand that Teller did not?

He saw the forest, not the trees.

I mean, just take a step back from Cyrus’s antics for a moment (because yes, as a mother, I have found all this just ridiculous, and yes, I do spend a large amount of time holding Cyrus up as an example of how you do not behave to my 13- and 11-year-olds). Let’s look at the big picture: Disney star needs to grow up; Disney star does all sorts of bad stuff and alienates her old fan base (and their parents); delinquent star is then picked up out of the gutter, well dressed, and demonstrates heretofore unrevealed depths. That kind of narrative arc doesn’t happen by accident. It happens by, well, design. And it is a familiar fashion blueprint.

Mascola/Insight: Retro Ad of the Week: Cadillac (1915), The Penalty of Leadership



“In every field of human endeavour, he that is first must perpetually live in the white light of publicity. Whether the leadership be vested in a man or in a manufactured product, emulation and envy are ever at work. In art, in literature, in music, in industry, the reward and the punishment are always the same. The reward is widespread recognition; the punishment, fierce denial and detraction. When a man’s work becomes a standard for the whole world, it also becomes a target for the shafts of the envious few. If his work be mediocre, he will be left severely alone – if he achieves a masterpiece, it will set a million tongues a-wagging. Jealousy does not protrude its forked tongue at the artist who produces a commonplace painting. Whatsoever you write, or paint, or play, or sing, or build, no one will strive to surpass or to slander you unless your work be stamped with the seal of genius. Long, long after a great work or a good work has been done, those who are disappointed or envious, continue to cry out that it cannot be done. Spiteful little voices in the domain of art were raised against our own Whistler as a mountback, long after the big world had acclaimed him its greatest artistic genius. Multitudes flocked to Bayreuth to worship at the musical shrine of Wagner, while the little group of those whom he had dethroned and displaced argued angrily that he was no musician at all. The little world continued to protest that Fulton could never build a steamboat, while the big world flocked to the river banks to see his boat steam by. The leader is assailed because he is a leader, and the effort to equal him is merely added proof of that leadership. Failing to equal or to excel, the follower seeks to depreciate and to destroy – but only confirms once more the superiority of that which he strives to supplant. There is nothing new in this. It is as old as the world and as old as human passions – envy, fear, greed, ambition, and the desire to surpass. And it all avails nothing. If the leader truly leads, he remains – the leader. Master-poet, master-painter, master-workman, each in his turn is assailed, and each holds his laurels through the ages. That which is good or great makes itself known, no matter how loud the clamor of denial. That which deserves to live – lives. “



Written by copywriter Theodore F. MacManus