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Category: Good Reads

Good Reads | Beware, Designers

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Vanessa Friedman for NYTimes: Beware, Designers: What Frida Giannini’s Departure at Gucci Tells Us


But it is also possible that, as attractive as the idea of “wardrobing” is, it serves more as a palate cleanser — a soupçon of lemon sorbet — for a brand as opposed to an identity. It is, ultimately, not satisfying enough, or sustainable enough. There has to be something more, and it was Ms. Giannini’s inability to define that “more” that was the real issue.

The Haas Brothers

The Haas Brothers

Interview Magazine:


And just as their work finds a dreamlike harmony in asymmetry, the twins' working partnership also seems to be a symbiotic union of mutually beneficial and supplementary talents: Niki is the left brain and Simon the right, except when it's the other way around.

Noma

Noma Staff

WSJ: Noma’s René Redzepi Never Stops Experimenting



After the loss of his restaurant’s best-in-the-world title in 2013, Danish chef René Redzepi is back on top with 90 new avant-garde recipes and a pop-up eatery in Japan

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According to Redzepi, 2013 was “an avalanche of disaster.” It started in February, when 63 diners at his legendary restaurant, Noma, contracted norovirus from a batch of tainted mussels. News about the incident—Redzepi’s first public misstep—quickly spun out of control. “We’d been the No. 1 restaurant in the world since 2010,” he says, referring to the closely watched San Pellegrino rankings. “It felt like standing outside on a perfect, clear day and suddenly being beaten to the ground by hoodlums.”

Jonathan Nolan On Time

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Jonathan Nolan in an interview with Fast Company for Interstellar:


“TIME” APPEARS TO BE A PERVASIVE THEME FOR YOU.
I’ve always felt that time was one of the great unheralded adversaries in film. This is all what we’re ultimately up against. By the time you and I hang up this phone, we’ll be 12 minutes older, 12 minutes closer to death, 12 minutes closer to being separated from our families and loved ones. It’s the great equalizer—we’re all under its yoke. We don’t really know how it works. It was one of the things I was struck by after years of work with Kip is that we don’t have a fucking clue what time is, why it operates the way it appears to operate in this universe. We just know we’re stuck with it.



Nicolas Ghesquière Focused Style.com/Print New Issue Shot by Juergen Teller

Style.com Print Spring 2015 Angel Rutledge by Juergen Teller

- Style.com/Print Spring 2015 Angel Rutledge by Juergen Teller

Article:



At Balenciaga, Nicolas Ghesquière established himself as fashion’s leading visionary. Now, at Louis Vuitton, he is out to prove that he is not only a “scientist” but a “great classic designer.”

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Ghesquière credits his new style—should we call it slow fashion à la slow food?—to maturity. “I can be a great scientist and look for ideas, but I want to tell you I can also be a great classic designer. I get older like everyone, and at 43, I want to think, OK, I have a signature, but I’m totally able to build something that is more timeless,” he says. Ambition, too, plays a role. When Ghesquière left Balenciaga, influential voices in the industry hoped he would launch his own label and advocated for LVMH, Richemont, or another fashion conglomerate to back the venture. Ghesquière enjoyed what he calls a “yearlong holiday” in between Balenciaga and LV, and it’s understood that he had discussions with several different entities. The fact that he didn’t do something under his own name was a letdown for some, but not for the designer himself. “To be at a brand like Balenciaga that some people were considering niche, and suddenly to be able to move on and speak to more people, it’s beautiful, I think, and something I was expecting for many years.”


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The Fishnet’s Origins

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CR Fashion Book: A Hole In The Sole



In his 1957 essay “Striptease,” Roland Barthes describes “the classic props of the music hall: the furs, the fans, the gloves, the feathers, the fishnet stocking…” Symbols of sin and excess, these accoutrements manage to transform a women’s body into a sex object through a process of erotic veiling and unveiling: “Is not the most erotic portion of the body where the garment gapes?” asks Barthes in 1973′s The Pleasure of the Text. “There are no ‘erogenous zones’…; it is intermittence…which is erotic: the intermittence of skin flashing between two articles of clothing…between two edges…It is this flash itself which seduces…The staging of an appearance-as-disappearance.” The interplay of seen and unseen, the very essence of striptease, is of course distilled, and concretized, in fishnets. But exactly when did fishnet stockings become an essential component of a sensual look? And how was their meaning evolved?

Good Reads | Hans Feurer

Hans Feurer

BoF: The Creative Class | Hans Feurer, Photographer



The son of a Swiss-Italian mother and a Swiss-German father (what he calls “mountain stock”), Feurer grew up near Zurich. Because his father left the family when he was very young, Feurer was forced to look after his two younger brothers and learnt to earn a living at an early age, an experience that, he says, gave him a sense of responsibility and self-sufficiency that have stayed with the photographer as an adult. “I had to work after school in the evenings. I had no choice. But it taught me that whenever there is a problem you have to find a solution. As a result, I am a good troubleshooter. The more difficult the situation, the better I am. I don’t give up, I actually become stronger.”

Young Guns

Young Guns

Vogue: Meet the 8 Anti-Diva Design Stars Who Are Transforming Fashion Now


If there is a common denominator among all these disparate talents, the thing that has taken them all past survival to the point of flourishing, it is their normality, their loyalty. They’re rooted.