With incredible fashion talent seemingly growing on trees these days—the work of the CFDA Fashion Incubator provides ample evidence—an aspiring designer may find it near impossible to create something original, something that stands out. But Melitta Baumeister has done just that.
Born into a family of tailors, the German designer was always surrounded by clothing and an “interest in making it.” She attended a fashion-oriented high school and then an art-related fashion program at Pforzheim University in Germany. During her last year there, she met Shelley Fox, the director of the MFA program at Parsons. “Fox’s way of approaching fashion convinced me to dive deeper into an exploration of my own design language,” says Baumeister.
Skip the first 5min:30sec as nothing is happening.
Opener: Joan Smalls (IMG)
Closer: Daphne Groeneveld (Women)
Thanks for Tyler (intern) for collecting this data. These designers either stood out for me and/or they're model influentials, and so we're looking at their choice of models opening & closing their shows.
Opener: Elena Peter (The Society)
Closer: Elena Peter (The Society)
Opener: Angel Rutledge (The Lions)
Closer: Julia Bergshoeff (DNA)
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Opener: Natali Eidelman (Why Not Milan, Unknown in NY)
Closer: Lera Tribel (Next)
Opener: Jamie Bochert (The Lions)
Closer: Holly May Saker (Trump)
Opener: Kristina Petrosiute (No Agency)
Closer: Cassi Van Den Dungen (Silent)
Opener: Anna Ewers (Women)
Closer: Anja Rubik (IMG)
Opener: Stasha Yatchuk (Women)
Closer: Agne Konciute (Next)
Opener: Vanessa Axente (DNA)
Closer: Kati Nescher (DNA)
Opener: Vanessa Moody (Women)
Closer: Anna Ewers (Women)
In the recent past, patents on our genes have been purchased. Are we still the sole proprietor of our bodies?
From this question arises a sense of arrested freedom in one's most intimate, solitary state.
A mix of ready-to-wear and couture pieces is presented with artist Lawrence Malstaf -who specializes in the interaction between biology and physicality.
Models float in the air, embryonic, seemingly weightless and in a meditative suspended animation. Metamorphosis is suggested through intricate enmeshing of materials. Imprisoned fire opal beads gleam through lacerated weaves, artificial fibers compose voluminous, architectural structures, the organic ripple of light on water.
A 3D printing collaboration with Julia Koerner fuses the artisanal with the technical to create a kinetic dress which dances as it amplifies bodily movement. Molded boots in collaboration with United Nude accelerate and reconfigure the silhouette.
The 3 models used were: Iekeline Stange, Soo Joo Park, & Hannelore Knuts. (More images)
When it was over, the audience cheered. It was official: Designer Nicolas Ghesquière had a rousing debut at Louis Vuitton.
As guests settled in for Ghesquière’s debut, they found a note on their seats, typed on ivory LV stationery and tucked inside a sealed envelope. A charmingly personal gesture in a time of email and Twitter communication. In the letter, Ghesquière expressed his joy over being at Louis Vuitton and thanked everyone for coming. But he also added, “I salute the work of Marc Jacobs, whose legacy I wholeheartedly hope to honour.”
The fresh start was evident from the moment guests entered the cobble-stoned interior courtyard of the Louvre where Vuitton has staged its shows for several years. There were no hostesses dressed in French maid uniforms, as Mr. Ghesquière’s predecessor Marc Jacobs had.
Inside, the change was even more stark. Mr. Jacobs, who left Vuitton in October to concentrate on his namesake label, put on extravagant shows, building sets such as an Orient Express-style train and classic hotel elevators to carry his models. The interior of Mr. Ghesquière’s venue was a hollow box. There was no decoration. A couple of square islands were set up with white padded benches for some of the guests. The rest of the guests were seated around the perimeter of the room. Fewer journalists and more clients were invited.
Mr. Jacobs was known to start his show promptly at 10 AM after a spat with critics over starting too late one season. Mr. Ghesquière cut guests a little more slack, commencing at 13 minutes past the scheduled time.
Tweet the message from Paris to Shanghai: The Louis Vuitton show on Wednesday was a success — for its modernity, its clarity, its decency — and its respect for women.
"I'm such a fan of the dress, that's why I bought it - five years ago," the song went on - but, despite the lyrics and although the silhouettes had a vintage feel, nothing about this collection was in homage to, or derived from, anything else: it was Nicolas Ghesquière's new vision for Vuitton - free from Jacobs's ghosts or his own Balenciaga baggage. New prints, new bag shapes, new fabrications, new models - and a few familiar faces.
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Kendall Jenner walking the Marc Jacobs show earlier tonight. Huge deal here. Especially after her appearance in W magazine earlier this week, in Pillow Tweets. Signs signal to her time to play in high fashion, and Marc just gave her a huge kick forward. Oh yes and she's showing her nipples, signaling her own freedom and open mindedness. Question we won't have till about 5 or 6 months from now: will she land the campaign? If Miley was an indication, and Marc's remarks to W magazine are anything:
Michael Kors, he has always been a great designer—he’s been a pillar of American fashion for years and years; his sensibility hasn’t changed. But he was on Project Runway! He became a household name because of that. Well, I’m not going to be on Project Runway. I’d do other things—and believe me, I’d do things that people would question—but Project Runway won’t be one of them. I don’t want to follow in someone else’s footsteps. I want the results—I just want them our way.”
"I want the results". So Marc wants to go main stream, and Miley, and possibly Kendall could be calculated moves on his part.
By the way, his poetic song repeating during the show, was: Happy Days Are Here Again.
Back to Kendall, she spoke to Into The Gloss backstage:
"I just recently turned 18, so this [Marc Jacobs show] is my big kick-off to start and grow my career. The New York fashion scene is crazy, madness, but I love the energy. I love everything about it—like the hair and makeup today, it’s incredible. I’ve never had my eyebrows bleached; I don’t even look like myself!
Extra: See Kendall's Model-Morphosis!
On the surface, Jason Wu wasn't an obvious choice for Hugo Boss. The German brand is known first and foremost for its menswear—Benedict Cumberbatch looked dashing in a Boss suit in the front row—while Wu is famous for designing Michelle Obama's inauguration gowns. It had to count for a lot with the Boss brass, which is eager to make a big push into womenswear, that the 31-year-old designer is a notoriously hard worker. Ambitious as hell, to boot. Both characteristics were on display today at his assured (if imperfect) debut, where Reese Witherspoon, Gerard Butler, Diane Kruger, and Gwyneth Paltrow, the face of a Boss fragrance to be released later this year, were also in attendance. That's a deep celebrity bench, and it's worth noting that they stood up and clapped as he came out for his bow. Not an everyday occurrence at New York fashion week.