Fashion Copious

Adrover

Style File: Miguel Adrover Sounds Off

The film [Call It a Balance in the Unbalance—a documentary about the uncompromising talent’s meteoric rise and fall] details Adrover’s post-9/11 commercial descent and subsequent return to Majorca, and the designer’s friends and supporters, like Suzy Menkes and stylist Eric Daman, spoke candidly in on-screen interviews about his uncensored vision. Not surprisingly, so did Adrover. “I don’t give a shit about [money]; I don’t believe in Chanel; I don’t believe in Karl Lagerfeld; I don’t believe in Yves Saint Laurent; but I do believe you can change society,” he professed during a Q&A.

The screening comes on the heels of Adrover’s departure from organic German label Hessnatur after eight years as its creative director. What’s next for the outspoken rebel? “I have three shows already prepared,” said Adrover, whose designs will be featured in the Met’s upcoming Punk: Chaos to Couture exhibition. “Anytime. You give me the money, I will make it happen. I don’t need a big stadium or a lot of lighting or things. I can do it right here.”

Vivienne Westwood:

Eric Wilson interviewing Vivienne Westwood:

Q. “Punk: Chaos to Couture” is the subject of the next Costume Institute exhibition. What do you think of punk as a subject for a major museum exhibition?

A. I’ll tell you the truth, not that it is a very good idea to tell the truth about things, but I was very cross with the Metropolitan Museum for not taking my retrospective. [An exhibition about Ms. Westwood was at the Victoria and Albert Museum in London in 2004.] I think it’s ridiculous. I’m also rather bored with American journalists. Every time punk comes up, they think of me as a kind of trophy. ‘Oh, we know Vivienne, she’s great.’ And then you hear nothing from them in between. You know, America is an isolated territory, with all those editors who think they are so powerful. Mostly, I think they are rubbish. And I don’t like fashion magazines either. Someone asked me the other day, if I really was a world controller, what is the first thing I would do. I would stop advertising.


Q. Can fashion still provoke?

A. Probably not. There’s such a communication of stylists. They weren’t very important once. The general public didn’t even know about them. They were paid very badly and worked for two weeks getting a shoot together and got a quarter of what the hair person got. Fashion has become so whatever. I don’t think there are any stones left to unturn.

1st Look At Marc Jacobs In Henry-Alex Rubin's 'DISCONNECT'

He can be seen below, at the 1:52 minute mark. Disconnect is described as: A drama centered on a group of people searching for human connections in today's wired world In which Jacobs plays a Harvey, the sleazy surrogate parent of the sex-cam models, luring them off the street with the promise of shelter and income. The films opens in theaters April 12^th.

Thug Life

Swidish brand Thug Life, Summer 2013 lookbook. [...]

Anais Pouliot for Oysho Winter 2012 Lingerie Collection

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Model Jana Wieland Presents Her Own Label 'JAAN'

Austrian model Jana Wieland presents her first collection F.W 12.13 for her own label JAAN

She modeled the collection, as shot by Andreas Waldschütz.

Good Reads | Phoebe English

Designers  / Interview

Dossier Journal: Phoebe English In Conversation

How was your Spring 2013 show for you?

Phoebe: It was fun, an anti-climax in a way. I like doing the show, but it would be interesting in the future to perhaps try a different ways of presenting, as it’s such a fixed way of people seeing your work. When I did my first fashion film, I was interested in having more control over how people saw the pieces. I have contemplated possibly doing a film instead of a presentation. But the show format is good and it has, in a way, been around for a really long time. I would really have to think about it because it would feel like you were really going against everyone.

TOTHEM

Shaded View On Fashion: TOTHEM COLLECTIONS S/S 2013 MAN & WOMAN

Tothem was born in June 2012 in Milan. Support Mady in Italy with modern tecnnology of digital print on cloth with photographic compositions on clothes. The first man's capsule collection for S/S 2013 " ROOTS" it's focused in the world of fruit and vegetables, mood inspiration Arcimboldo. The woman's capsule collection S/S 2013 "FLOS" focused in a dimanic world of flowers. Essential and outline of cut; rafined print on jersey and fluid satin. Expression photographic and artistic talent by Carolina Amoretti and Matteo Abbo.

Come for Breakfast

Come for Breakfast Spring/Summer 2013 Virtual Catwalk Show

Susie Bubble & Donatella

Susie Bubble awkwardly asking Donatella Versace about the perceived tackiness of the brand and do blondes really have more fun.

Hopeless Lingerie

Australia brand Hopeless (Etsy Shop).
Black Open 'Wendy' Bra Cage Frame Harness | $42.05

I like this brand, by Melbourne designer Gabrielle Adamidis. She takes care in how to present her collection, and tell the right story. She's also stright forward, and playful, with her descriptions. For example she describes the above bra as:

A fetish inspired open frame bra, in soft elastic for comfortable wear. This can be worn alone or layered with other lingerie as an accessory. Not for the faint-hearted, this is guaranteed to illicit a reaction.

Gabrielle also released an editorial recently, titled The Death, and had this to say:

When I started Hopeless just over four years ago, I never could have imagined the roller-coaster ride that has been my life since that moment. It has been both the most rewarding and the most challenging thing I have ever done, and for a large part of this year it was beginning to feel like those challenges were outweighing everything else.

At some point during those difficult months I decided that I needed to start thinking differently in order to move ahead. Without really knowing where it would take me, I immersed myself in creating a collection that was going to be different from any other one before. I blocked out every voice that said "Will it sell?", "Is it commercial enough?", "Who will wear it?", - and a bunch of other questions that I felt had been drowning me creatively for some time.

I limited my materials to only what I had in my studio, and did not spend a cent on new fabrics or notions. I watched a lot of Silent Cinema and took many visual clues from films such as Nosferatu and Metropolis, with their use of shadow and contrast providing endless inspiration.

Visually I wanted this story to be very dark, because it was created amidst dark circumstances, but even more I wanted it to signal then end of an era, representing the end of this enormous down-swing, and signifying a new beginning. As each day passes I learn new things about myself, about the world, and Hopeless Lingerie is very much a representation of my personal journey. This story is about so much more than selling knickers, and despite how difficult this year has been I am also proud to have come out standing strong on the other side.

I am so excited for each day, for my customers, and for every chance I get to make something new. I can't quite believe how lucky I am to be able to spend my time doing what I love. Most of all I am so grateful for all the people that buy things from my store, that read this blog, and for anyone who shares any of my work with their friends.

The following pictures are Part I of a two part series - the latter of which I will be sharing in a couple of weeks. Big thanks to Vlad Savin who completely understood, and interpreted my vision perfectly.

Very beautiful. Shop | Blog

Watch Raf Simons Discuss His Dior SS13 Collection

Next Week's "Rivalry"

But really, why have people decided to turn this week into a Hedi versus Raf face-off? Besides the usual reasons for stirring up drama (like boredom), the two designers invite a lot of comparison to one another, and it's truly rare for two fashion houses of this size to tap new designers at the same time. Here's a roundup of what the fashion press has said about their so-called "rivalry."

The Cut: The Dubious Rivalry Between Raf Simons and Hedi Slimane: An Examination

Miuccia Prada On Her SS13 Collection

“Very sensual, deeply feminine,” Ms. Prada said. “It’s about feelings. There are two opposites — rectangular shapes, with folds, very geometric; with the flower as a symbol, of poetry, sentiment, community — those things that are always struggles in the life of women.”

[NY Times]

Boys Will Be Boys

Cavalli
As usual, the Camera Nazionale della Moda is washing its hands of the situation and it will not go against the wishes of Little King Armani, and therefore the problems are mine alone.

Armani:
Cavalli should be quiet because the ‘Little King’ could start to get angry.

Fashionista: Giorgio Armani Responds to Roberto Cavalli’s Blog Attack