Being from the North of England Alasdair McLellan's youthful curiosities channeled romantic notions about being English and Northern since he began to photograph in 1986. He has admired those who have directed generations through their own similar obsessions such as Bruce Weber’s playful and sexually charged imagery of America and Steven Patrick Morrissey’s unfaltering melancholy and mythological observations. McLellan’s work maintains both the edginess of these influences as well as the unashamedly lyrical pulse which makes the work a tune for the masses. The Northern, working class aesthetic of Bradford’s Buttershaw Estate, immortalized in Alan Clarke’s classic film Rita, Sue and Bob Too! has continually had a pull for McLellan — his photographs play with the tension of the ordinary in a similarly unselfconscious way as it's writer Andrea Dunbar.
Alasdair McLellan’s Ultimate Clothing Company is both an intimate and introspective monograph edited and designed by art directors Mathias Augustyniak and Michael Amzalag M/M (PARIS) and beautifully printed in a numbered limited edition of 2,000 with a poster-wrap dust jacket.
Published in Paris by Alasdair McLellan, 2013 Edition of 2,000 copies / designed by M/M Suggested retail $65
How does the title, Ultimate Clothing Company, relate to the images? Ultimate Clothing Company comes from a jeans shop from my hometown of Doncaster, where me and my mates would shop every Saturday. It related to the project as clothes are important when you’re growing up in the north of England.
This handsome volume chronicles the rise of the
fashion house Chloé, a crucible of creativity for some of fashion’s most
notable designers. The fashion brand Chloé may be sixty years old, but
she still exudes a youthful elegance and femininity. As the first
high-end Paris fashion house to sell exclusively ready-to-wear clothing,
Chloé has since redefined its look for the modern woman with flattering
colors, quality materials, and a series of must-have It bags. Chloé
started in 1952 when Gaby Aghion invented the revolutionary idea of
luxury prêt-à-porter, taking the craftsmanship of haute couture and
making it available to a wider audience. Her focus on the beautiful yet
wearable gave the line currency with chic young women. Born in Egypt in
1921 and moving to Paris when she was in her twenties, Aghion dressed
some of the most fashionable and powerful women of her day, including
Jackie O, Grace Kelly, and Brigitte Bardot. Her vision has always been
maintained through the company’s extensive career. The company’s lively
and fresh energy has been sustained through the decades partly because
it seeks out new talent, including then-28-year-old designer Karl
Lagerfeld, who started with the company in 1966. The book explores his
career at Chloé, along with Martine Sitbon (in 1988), Stella McCartney,
who joined Chloé when she was 26 (in 1997), and Phoebe Philo, who was
responsible for Chloé’s major reinvention from 2001 to 2006, where she
is credited for bringing a sensual and personal touch to the line. It is
currently helmed by Clare Waight Keller, who previously reinvigorated
the fashion line Pringle of Scotland. Chloé, in short, is the modern
woman—refined and redefined.
Chloe: Attitudes Text by Sarah Mower, Foreword by Gaby Aghion, Contribution by Marc Ascoli Pub Date: October 29, 2013 Format: Hardcover Publisher: Rizzoli Price: $85.00 ($51 Amazon)
Henry Darger was utterly unknown during his lifetime, keeping a quiet,
secluded existence as a janitor on Chicago's North Side. When he died
his landlord discovered a treasure trove of more than three hundred
canvases and more than 30,000 manuscript pages depicting a rich,
shocking fantasy world-many showing hermaphroditic children being
eviscerated, crucified and strangled.
While some art historians
tend to dismiss Darger as an unhinged psychopath, in Henry Darger,
Throw-Away Boy, Jim Elledge cuts through the cloud of controversy and
rediscovers Darger as a damaged, fearful, gay man, raised in a world
unaware of the consequences of child abuse or gay shame. This
thoughtful, sympathetic biography tells the true story of a tragically
misunderstood artist. Drawn from fascinating histories of the
vice-ridden districts of 1900s Chicago, tens of thousands of pages of
primary source material, and Elledge's own work in queer history, the
book also features a full-color reproduction of a never-before-seen
canvas from a private gallery in New York, as well as a previously
undiscovered photograph of Darger with his life-partner Whillie.
and arresting, Henry Darger, Throw-Away Boy brings alive a complex,
brave, and compelling man whose outsider art is both challenging and a
triumph over trauma.
Financial Times Style blog reviews some up coming fashion books in Autumn’s best dressed books. I highlighted the above one because the description on Amazon did it more justice (below). It features model Jenny Shimizu.
From Christian Dior to Yves Saint Laurent and Alexander McQueen, many of the greatest fashion designers of the past century have been gay. Fashion and style have played an important role within the LGBTQ community, as well, even as early as the 18th century. This provocative book looks at the history of fashion through a queer lens, examining high fashion as a site of gay cultural production and exploring the aesthetic sensibilities and unconventional dress of LGBTQ people, especially since the 1950s, to demonstrate the centrality of gay culture to the creation of modern fashion. Contributions by some of the world's most acclaimed scholars of gay history and fashion - including Christopher Breward, Shaun Cole, Vicki Karaminas, Jonathan D. Katz, Peter McNeil and Elizabeth Wilson - investigate topics such as the context in which key designers' lives and works form part of a broader "gay" history; the "archeology" of queer attire back to the homosexual underworld of 18th-century Europe; and the influence of LGBTQ subcultural styles from the trouser suits worn by Marlene Dietrich (which inspired Yves Saint Laurent's "Le Smoking") to the iconography of leather. Sumptuous illustrations include both fashion photography and archival imagery.
Europe between the wars was full of fascinating characters, many of them
forgotten today. Now Jean-Noel Liaut — a Frenchman who has written 11
books on subjects that include writer Karen Blixen, designer Hubert de
Givenchy, model/actress Natalie Paley and antiques dealer/decorator
Madeleine Castaing — has rediscovered one: Catharina Koopman, known as
Toto. She was born in Java and became an haute couture model in Paris,
then a spy for the Allies, an inmate in Ravensbruck, the longtime
girlfriend of art dealer Erica Brausen and an archaeologist.
created a beautiful compound on the then-primitive Italian island of
Panarea, where she and Brausen, who launched the career of Francis
Bacon, entertained guests prominent in the arts and society. Their
circle included Alexander Korda, Luchino Visconti, the Duchess of
Devonshire, Joan Miró, Alberto Giacometti, Peter Brook, Pierre Boulez,
Lee Miller and Bruce Chatwin.
Liaut tells her story in “The Many
Lives of Miss K.: Toto Koopman — Model, Muse, Spy” (Rizzoli Ex Libris),
translated by Denise Raab Jacobs. Its subject’s life offers many
surprises. “She was a free spirit,” says Liaut. “She was fascinating for
many different reasons. She spoke five languages fluently, she was a
brilliant wit, she was beautiful, but it’s much more than that. All her
friends are still completely captivated by her — the glamorous
This is a bold claim, but i stand behind it: if you learn and follow
these five typography rules, you will be a better typographer
than 95% of professional writers and 70% of professional
designers. (The rest of this book will raise you to the 99th
percentile in both categories.)
All it takes is ten minutes—five minutes to read these rules once, then five minutes to read them again.
With energy and glamour, iconic photographer Craig McDean captures the celebrated evolution of fashion’s biggest muses: Kate Moss, Guinevere van Seenus, and Amber Valletta. With their waiflike frames and unique features that contrasted with the supermodels of the ’80s, Amber, Guinevere, and Kate became the anti-supermodels that, alongside grunge, signified a global shift in culture. And Craig McDean, an artist with a talented eye for the striking and unusual, photographed them from their beginnings. McDean, whose works are praised for their conceptual and sophisticated edge, is well respected in both the photography and fashion worlds. Shot on film from 1992 through 2002, this roughly chronological volume of 150 color and black-and-white images includes never-before-published photographs, outtakes from famous shoots, and contact sheets. Texts by Mathias Augustyniak of M/M (Paris) and author Glenn O’Brien add depth and perspective to the works. The photographs within this volume capture the essence of an era that changed fashion forever and will be treasured by fashion, style, and photography lovers from all generations.