Speaking With Designer Samantha Pleet

I recently had a chance to catch up with NY designer Samantha Pleet, to see what's she's up to since her involvement with Space15Twenty back in November. And to my delight she's been up to a few things that are to my liking and anticipation. Things like a menswear line with husband Patrick Pleet, and her happy separation with Bodkin partner Eviana, to focus fully on her own Samantha Pleet Fall 09 collection.

But then, this did not come as a surprise as I learned a little of her history, and found out that her grandmother was "the most stylish woman" she knew, and that her sculptor grandfather played the mandolin! Should we expect anything less from a lady who likes to treasure hunt? Read on to learn more about this designer who's gathered a cult following after her.

The Talk

Samantha, thanks for taking the time to chat with us

It's always interesting to learn how designers came to be. So why don't we start off by learning a little about your background; What drove you to the fashion design; where you studied; and does fashion run in your family?
Since childhood I would create costumes for my friends and I, we would put on plays and run around in crazy outfits. My parents were very supportive but I'm sure they were worried I would never grow out of it, they were right. I didn't decide on fashion right away. I thought it might have been acting , music, or painting instead. I went to Pratt Institute for Painting and immediately switched over to fashion my first year. It was a perfect fit for me because It combined so many elements of my interests. I am the first in my family to become a designer. My dad is a lawyer his mother, my grandmother is the most stylish woman I know, she still wears rompers. My mother is an occupational therapist who also makes amazing furniture. And my late grandfather was a sculptor who played the mandolin.

You debuted the Samantha Pleet line back in fall of 06. How has that journey been so far? What are some of the most voluble lessons you've taken away from this beginning?
I really jumped into starting a line right after school. It happened very organically for me and I have learned a lot since. I was lucky enough to work with many talented photographers, musicians, stylists, and store owners. I first started by going into my favorite shops with my look book and met amazing people along the way.

Some mistakes must have come your way as well, any advice for up and comers, to avoid?
I would make sure you don't make to many things, It is more important to pay attention to detail and do a few things perfectly, its quality not quantity.

In addition to your own line, you were also partnering with designer Eviana Hartman on the Bodkin brand. But for Fall 09 you two decided to part ways, to each concentrate on one collection. You on your personal line, and Eviana on Bodkin. How did that decision come about?
Eviana and I first started the line to be more of a folly and it turned out to be bigger and better than ether of us expected. I really needed to concentrate on my collection. Eviana decided she wanted to work on Bodkin full time. We still share an office and consult with each other. I am so excited about Bodkin, she is going to have a great Fall 09 collection.
I have also been working with my husband Patrick on a menswear line called Patrick Pleet and Rapscallion the line I make exclusively for Urban Outfitters. Patrick and I also just recently designed a Pop up store in LA that sold Samantha Pleet, Patrick Pleet, vintage, curiosities, books, music, films, and accessories from talented designers like Pamela Love.

With all your energy now devoted to this one collection, should we expect to see something more different? Maybe more elaborate in thought or technique?
Yes I hope to make fall my best collection yet. I want to pay attention to detail and spend a great deal of time on each piece. I have been experementing with organic dyes and fabrics to make this collection very special.

Your work is described as a sartorial alchemy. That sounds really enchanting and emotional. Can you tell us what those words mean to you?
That would mean my collection is a mixture of wit and humor combined with all of my influences from culture. Designing clothes is emotional for me, it is the projection of what is going on inside my head. I usually only start to really understand what I am thinking when I look at the finished collection.

Sustainable design was an important part of Bodkin, and is for Samantha Pleet. Bodkin actually won the Eco Domani awward inaugural award for sustainable design this week. How important is [and should be] sustainability to what we wear?
It is very important, the more we use organic materials the more companies become organic. It is a lot easier to find organic fabrics than it was a few years ago but its nowhere near enough. I also think the quality of the fabrics are amazing, and you feel you are doing even a small part to make the world a better place. I also believe in producing locally, my line is make in New York City. Its important to support the local economy especially right now.

We like your lookbooks a lot; How important is the overall styling and image to you as a designer?
Half the fun for me is making the lookbook. The lookbook or film is the key to bringing people into the world we created with the collection. For spring 09 we collaborated with photographer Tom Hines on a lookbook and film. It was fun being on set and directing the models with Tom. If I had a second career it would be film.

You have a blog that is recently seeing more updates from you. What are you looking to share with the world?
I thought it was about time to join the blogosphere. It gives me a chance to show behind the scenes photo's from shoots, travel photo's, inspirations, and news. If people are interested my world is there for them to see.

Alright, times for favorites:

Your personal favorite designers: Vivienne Westwood, Carl Lagefeld, Coco Chanel, Adolfo, Claire McCardell

Magazines: Dossier, Lula, Purple, National Geographic, Cabinet

Music, Band or genre: Joy Division, Nirvana, Au Revoire Simone, TV on the Radio, Grizzly bear

Movies: Valerie and Her Week of Wonders, Heathers, A Clockwork Orange, Week End

Read: Dune

City: New York

Past time activity: treasure hunting

And your new favorite fashion blog :) FashionCopious.com

Thanks for your time.